Choosing a Road Bike

Wow! There sure are a lot of options out there!

So many manufacturers, models, frame materials, drive train configurations and price points can be overwhelming to a first time buyer. We'll try to break it down to the important components.

You

What kind of riding you want to do? If you want to compete in road races or triathlons, you will probably want a performace bike with agressive geometry that helps you be aerodynamic. If you only plan to ride your bike in Florida, a standard double chainring will be sufficient. But if you want to take it to other places where there are long hills and mountains, a triple will come in handy. If you are intersted in distance and endurance riding, or you want to do multi-day bike tours, you will want a bike with more relaxed geometry and made from a vibration-dampening material like carbon or steel. You might even consider a touring frame with brazes for paniers and racks.

How is your body proportioned? Not all women are built the same, but many of us have proportions that do not lend themselves to bikes designed for men. Fortunately, many of the bike manufacturers have now followed Terry's lead in building bikes for us. If you find yourself stretched out to reach the handlebars on a unisex model, you might shorten the stem or drop to a smaller frame, or you might find ultimate comfort on a women's specific bike.

How much money do you want to spend? If you want to check out the road cycling but aren't sure how much you'll ride, there are many good road bikes in the lower price range. Be sure you buy something that you will be comfortable on and enjoy riding. A tank that makes you miserable every time you pedal it will not enhance your enjoyment of the sport. If you plan to ride a lot of miles or keep this bike for a long time, it makes sense to buy the best frame and highest quality drive train you can afford.

Bike Frame Geometry

Geez, that sounds technical. The bike's geometry is determined by the relative lengths and angles of its tubes and stays. See the bike diagram for help with terminology.

A bike with "aggressive" geometry has a more upright seat tube and a level top tube. The wheel base is shorter and more compact, the saddle is considerably higher than the handlebars, putting the rider in a more aerodynamic position. This position is great for speed, but it can be hard on the neck, back and wrists after several hours of riding. The bikes also tend to be stiffer, making them quicker and more responsive, but also transferring more shock to the rider on rough roads.

On a "relaxed" geometry bike, the top tube is angled up in the front, the seat tube is angled back and there is slightly more rake in the fork. A longer wheelbase makes the bike less stiff and offers a more comfortable ride. The rider sits more upright, creating less pressure on the back and wrists and allowing her to see the road ahead with less neck strain. The riding postion is not as aerodynamic, even in the drops, as a performance bike.

There are endless variations of frame geometries out there among the many manufacturers and models. Finding the bike that fits you best may require test-riding a lot of diffrent makes and models. Below is an example of a range of frames, from agressive to relaxed, in both unisex and women's specific geometries:

	Trek Equinox		Trek Equinox WSD
	Trek Madone		Trek Madone WSD
	Cannondale Synapse		Cannondale Synapse Féminine
	Specialized Roubaix		Specialized Ruby
	Trek Pilot		Trek Pilot WSD

More about bike frames in Wikipedia

Frame Material

Everyone has an opinion about frame material, but some basic characteristics are generally agreed-upon. Here is an overview.

Steel

Steel is built for comfort. The springy, vibration-dampening ride keeps many touring riders loyal to this traditional frame material. Steel is durable, inexpensive,and easy to repair, but it is heavy. It can also rust if water gets into the frame. There are high-quality steel frames that are lighter than low-quality aluminum. They are expensive, of course, but offer excellent ride quality.

Aluminum

Aluminum is a common frame material in most entry-level bikes these days. It is lighter and stiffer than steel, but is prone to fatigue over time. Aluminum frame performance bikes are extremely responsive and "quick." The primary complaint about aluminum is that the ride is bone-jarring on rough roads. This is especillay true of older frames and inexpenive new ones. Newer alloys, frame and seat stay design and the addition of key carbon components have greatly improved the shock-absorbing characteristics of current-model aluminum bikes.

Titanium

Titanium is one of the longest lasting and strongest materials. It is also one of the most expensive. Two common titanium alloys used in bike frames are 3/2.5 and 6/4 (aluminum/vanadium), the latter being lighter, stronger and more expensive. The ride characteristics are described as being responsive like aluminum and comfortable like steel, with a feel that is more "alive" than carbon.

Carbon Fiber

Carbon fiber is a composite of fabric and resin. Carbon is extremely light and stiff and has a vibration-dampening quality that has made it popular for forks and stays in aluminum frame bikes. It is a durable material that does not corrode, however, it is vulnerable to deep scratches and gouges which can cause structural failure. Carbon is also vulnerable to being crushed when it is clamped. Proper torque is essential when tightening carbon stems, handlebars or seat posts.

Drive Train

Start talking about gear ratios and drive trains and women run for the door. We'll try to make it simple and break down the configuration and price point options.

Chain Rings

Let's start at the crank (bike diagram). There are 3 basic configurations for the chain rings - triple, double and compact (double). A triple chainring gives you 27 or 30 gears (depending on whether you have a 9 or 10-speed cassette), a double or compact gives you 18 or 20 (respectively).

A standard double chainring consists of a large, 53T (tooth) ring and a small 39T ring. This offers the average recreational rider gear ratios ideal for high speed as well as moderate grade hills (~6%).

A typical triple chain ring will have a top ring with 50 or 52T, a middle ring of 42 or 39T and a small ring of 30T (commonly referred to as a "granny gear"). The third ring offers a rider the ability to spin more easily on hills, and can make the difference between riding and walking up a steep hill. The third ring adds a little weight (about 170 grams) and the front derailleurs tend to shift more slowly and require more fine-tuning than on a double.

The compact double set is an alternative to a standard double. It typically comes with 50T and 34T rings. The smaller 34T ring offers a rider the ability to spin a faster cadence on hills. It also allows for a cassette configured with closer gear ratios to be used - allowing more fine-tuned shifting with grade and speed changes. Many of the pro riders have gone to this configuration.

For the average recreational rider, the compact set is not an alternative to a triple. However, they are incorrectly being sold as such. There are significant compromises to this configuration. Shifting between the rings requires a lot of simultaneous shifting on the cassette to minimize the leap in gear ratio. There is a sacrifice of power on the top end for pedaling down hill, and there is a consequential difference between 30 and 34T on a long, steep climb. The weight savings of 170 grams is huge to a racer, but most of the rest of us could lose a lot more than that off our rear ends before it matters on our bikes.

Bottom line: if you want to climb mountains, your body-fat percentage and power-weight ratio is not near that of a tour contender and you'd prefer to keep the knees you were born with, get a triple. If you want the best of both worlds, buy two bikes.

Cassettes

If you're just entering the sport and buying your first bike, chances are you're not going to pay much attention to the gear ratios on the cassette. The standard choices are 12-27, 12-25, 12-23 and 11-23. For all-purpose riding with standard double or a triple, a 12-27 (meaning the smallest has 12 teeth and the largest has 27) is a good choice. For more agressive riding and fine-tuned shifting you might opt for an 12-23 or 11-23. As mentioned above, a very fit and strong climber would do well with a tighter cassette and a compact crank, while a heavier, average rider would struggle on a steep grade. For a visual on gear ratios out these tables.

Groups

Group (or gruppo, if you wanna be cool) refers to all the parts of the drivetrain grouped together at a particular price/quality level (105, Ultegra, Chorus, Record, etc.). It typically includes the derailers, shifters, brakes, cables, crankset, bottom bracket, hubs and chain. Bike manufacturers sometimes mix and match some of these features on their different levels of bikes, making it all the more confusing.

This part of the drive train often drives the price differences between bike models. Deciding between them is a matter of determining how much you plan to use the bike, and for how long. If you are buying an entry level bike to get into the sport and plan to upgrade to a higer end machine in a year or so, you might want to go with a moderate- to low-priced group. If this is a bike you intend to ride 10,000 miles on, you'll be better off to step up to higer-quality, lighter-weight components.

Here is an overview of the group levels:

Entry Level	Campagnolo Mirage Shimano Sora	heaviest
Enthusiast	Campagnolo Veloce Shimano Tiagra	heavy
Serious	Campagnolo Daytona Shimano 105	moderate weight, good value
Race	Campagnolo Chorus Shimano Ultegra SRAM Rival	excellent quality and durability, light weight
Pro	Campagnolo Record Shimano Dura-Ace SRAM Force	superlight

Choosing between manufacturers is a matter of preference. There are diferences in price and weight, but the most immediately apparent difference to a new rider is that each uses a slightly different shift lever.

Shimano Brake lever moves chain to larger ring (left hand)/cog (right hand). Tab moves chain to smaller ring/cog.	Campagnolo Finger tab moves chain to larger ring/cog. Thumb tab moves chain to smaller ring/cog.	SRAM Double Tap system - a single tab is clicked once to move to larger ring/cog and twice to move to smaller ring/cog.

Wheels

Wheels actually make a huge difference in the ride, but they don't tend to be a huge factor in buying a bike because the other features of the make and model tend to drive the decision.

Size

If you are 5'3 or less, wheel size could be a factor in your bike purchase. Some manufacturers use smaller wheels (650c as opposed to standard 700c) on small frame and women's specific bikes. This is done for height as well as to reduce toe overlap (of your foot with the front wheel). They are non-standard, so tires and tubes can be more expensive and harder to find. You're also less likely to be able to borrow a tube from someone in a group if you get multiple flats on a ride. These wheels do offer some advantages to acceleration, cornering and climbing.

Weight

Because it is rotating weight, lighter wheels drastically improve climbing, acceleration and handling.

Rim Shape

There are two basic designs: conventional box-section rims (square or rectagonally shaped) and aero-section rims (triangularly shaped). Box-section rims are lightweight, accelerate quickly, and provide the most comfort. Aero-shaped rims are stronger, have less wind drag, and are stiffer (less comfortable).

Spokes

A lot of high-end rims have far fewer than the traditional 32 spokes. Fewer spokes reduce weight and wind drag. Heavier riders need more spokes to keep the wheels true.

Pedals

Your new bike will not come with pedals. To efficiently pedal a road bike, you need a pedal system that allows you to make complete circles. Toe cages will give you a partial circle and are better than open pedals, but they are nowhere near as efficient as clipless pedals.

When choosing a clipless pedal system, consider the type of road riding you want to do. Road bike shoes and cleats are the most efficient and ideal for typical club riding. For touring, mountain bike pedals and shoes (with recessed cleats) are a better choice because when you get off the bike you can walk normally.